Fortezza da Basso
Triumphal Arch
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I left my apartment at 10:30 this morning to go in search of the Russian Orthodox Church as I had read it was a good example of art nouveau architecture. let me say here in a semi-public forum: Google Maps leave a lot to be desired! even though I wander the streets daily, I am not familiar with Florence outside my regular areas and I tend to not use a map but to go by landmarks; hence I don't know the names of a lot of streets but know to turn at a particular store or building or other landmark. but even I now know of 2 or 3 routes which are much more direct than the one Google mapped, however I didn't know that before I started. so I began my trek. Google said about 35 minutes, not reckoning with the interesting stops one constantly encounters on any given day in Florence. first thing on the Ponte Vecchio I spot this cute little boy - all little kids are cute, but this one was adorable! what really caught my eye were his fashionably slim pants, just like his dad's. children here dress as fashionably as the adults; there are "Jr's" of a lot of the designer stores, but it's another story about how to spend thousands on an outfit your child will outgrow in 6 months ... did I say, that's another story! if you come to Italy, bring the skinniest pants you have, even if your body isn't! onward: there is a place on Via Calimala where street painters known as "Madonnaro", or "Madonnara" for women artists, work every day on reproductions of famous paintings - usually famous reproductions but one day I saw them drawing Mick Jagger! the drawing area is 10' x 8' and the artists work kneeling or sitting, really backbreaking work. tourists stop and watch and take pictures and leave a euro or so, which is the right thing to do as this is their work. most nights the street sweepers wash away the picture though some times the artists don't finish and leave boxes around their work to ask the sweepers not to destroy the picture. technically one pays a license to occupy the space on certain days. the last picture was taken at night. more info: http://www.turismo.intoscana.it/allthingstuscany/tuscanyarts/street-painting-in-florence-kelly-borsheim/ to the Piazza delle Repubblica on the route outlined by Google and there's a street market with wines, honey, locally made sweaters, produce and plants, another stop which Google hadn't mentioned and extends the 35 minutes. these markets are very common, I ran into one yesterday just off Borgo Ognissanti, but even if they are common, I must stop and look. I bought a scarf yesterday from a very nice lady, who I'm proud to say I could understand, telling me she worked at home to keep the price "basso", low. Google says to go down Borgo San Lorenzo, this was my neighborhood when I lived here last spring so I'm confident I can negotiate this part but here's where Google gets tricky. I know the church is near the Fortezza da Basso so wouldn't you think a planned route would be the quickest, best route? Fortezza da Basso no it isn't! after a circutius route, I reach the Piazza della Liberta and that's when I know I could have made the trip much shorter and more direct - enough about Google's direction giving, just remember not to trust 'em! Triumphal Arch well maybe not quite enough about Google's directions, from the Piazza I'm to go on Via Bon Lupi to Via Leone X. neither street is to be found nor do the 3 people I ask know where either is. finally I ask a lady for the "Chiesa Ortodossa Russa" and she points me in the right direction. NOW I'm through with Google! all the missteps and asking directions a number of times are worth it because the church is beautiful! it is under renovation, which I read was a dire necessity, so most of the front is obstructed by scaffolding but it is plain to see the building is wonderful. it is officially called the Orthodox Russian church of the Nativity of Christ and Saint Nicholas and was built between 1899 and 1903 by Russian architect Michail Préobraženskij. pictures were not allowed inside the church and as Mary Kerchner will attest, I always follow the rules ... maybe not always but I did not take any photos inside. interestingly I haven't been able to find any online except this one from the church's website: the website also had this photo of the church without the scaffolding, as you can see definitely worth a visit. I decided to return by a route I knew because I was tired and wanted to take a city bus home. as I made my way to where I could see the Fortezza, which is quite near the train station and bus terminal, I saw awnings, a sure sign of a market! I didn't know until I returned home and looked online (how did we ever know anything before Al Gore invented the internet??) that the Fortezza Antiquaria happens every 3rd Sunday of the month, and lucky me this is the 3rd Sunday. there were items of every description: antique furniture, used furniture, antique jewelry, new jewelry, cameras old and new, dishes and flatware of every description but the one thing that caught my eye was a finely wrought porcelain of a horse amputation ... have you digested that? horse amputation in lovely porcelain! why, you ask? and I ask, too ... here for my friend John Young, the veterinarian. (can you see the man on the left is holding up the horse's leg? maybe the "click to enlarge" feature is working! wouldn't want to miss this, folks!) by this time I am really tired and I have to walk 10 more minutes to catch a bus; however, the fates have not deemed it time for me to ride any stinkin' bus! as I round the front of the Fortezza, another interesting event appears: Fiera di Firenze, Florence Fair. the Fortezza was built in 1534 and was one of the first Italian villages to be fortified but was never attacked and is still intact today. it is now used as a convention center and congress for large events. of course I went in as there was "ingresso libero", free entry. it appeared to be the equivalent of a home show with furniture, a cooking class, food - everything to while away a Sunday afternoon. now fates or not I'm going home and rest my weary body, it's about 2:30and I left at 10:30, 4 hours walking with only about 15 minutes to sit and eat a sandwich. at the station, I can't find a bus that goes directly near my apartment without having to change so I think I'll just walk, only about 20 more minutes. 20 minutes IF you walk directly there, it seems I can't go anywhere today in a direct line. I plod on in the very familiar path from Santa Maria Novella station to my home sweet home. at the Piazza del Duomo there is a huge crowd, there's always a huge crowd around the Duomo but today it's HUGE and there's smoke and singing and a band! am I destined to spend the night en route to my bed?? it's a parade of Peruvians honoring El Senor de Los Milagros, the participants wear purple robes, there are even babies wearing purple, and so much incense it looked as if something was on fire. to learn more about this Peruvian celebration see: http://thingstodo.viator.com/peru/el-senor-de-los-milagros-in-lima-peru/. what a wonderful day! started out on a mission which in itself would have been enough of a treat but on the road encountered so much to make the day even better! at last the Ponte Vecchio is in sight, but navigating through the hoards of people can be a feat ... the bridge is nearly empty, guess the fates are feeling sorry for me. WHEW my Piazza de Santa Felicita - it's 4:00, 5 1/2 hours since I last passed this way. one thing you can rarely say in Florence, "there's nothing to do"!
3 Comments
Welcome back. I wish I was there because I well remember the Russian Church from my childhood and I would easily take you there. I remember that it is a legacy of the affluent Russian community in Florence, the prince Demidoff overall. There is also a Via di Villa Demidoff somewhere..... Anyway, what accurate neat precision in your notes... I admire...... hugs
Karen
10/24/2012 09:44:51 pm
Another awesome day for you. Such interesting things to view - if a person only opens their eyes. Leave a Reply. |